waves
So many happy memories have come from coastlines.
I recall the first time I ever surfed a wave properly, at Eloura, south of Sydney, not far from where I grew up. It was late afternoon on a school day, and from the corner of my eye I could see my brother on the sand, his arms up in the air, cheering me on. That, to me, was the whole ocean in a single moment, and I’ve loved it ever since.
